Why Climb in Moab? A Local Guide's Insight on this Desert Climbing Paradise
Nestled in the heart of the red-rock desert. Moab, Utah, offers climbers a landscape like no other. From towering sandstone walls to delicate formations and breathtaking desert view, it’s a destination that attracts climbers from across the globe. As a climbing guide and longtime Moab resident with over 17 years of experience, I’ve seen firsthand why this place captivates adventurers year after year. Let me take you through what makes Moab a must-visit for rock climbers of all levels.
Lighthouse Tower with route Lonely Vigil 5.10, 4 pitches. The summit is just left of center.
World-Class Sandstone Climbing
Moab is renowned for its stunning Wingate sandstone - a rock type known for its strength, friction, and climbability. This natural surface provides climbers with excellent friction on face climbs and solid cracks for traditional climbing. Whether you’re scaling a classic tower or enjoying a single-pitch sport route, Moab’s sandstone is as good as it gets.
Pro Tip: Always inspect the rock after rain storms, as sandstone becomes fragile and can break under pressure when wet.
2. Diverse Climbing Options for All Skill Levels
One of Moab’s greatest strengths is its variety of climbing opportunities. Whether you’re a beginner seeking a fun and safe introduction or a seasoned climber looking for a challenge, there’s something for everyone.
• Beginner-Friendly Areas: Wall Street (accessible roadside climbing), Take Out Beach, Ice Cream Parlor or Looking Glass Rock
• Intermediate Climbs: Ice Cream Parlor and Potash Road routes or Ancient Art the deserts most iconic tower.
• Advanced Climbs: Castle Valley towers (like Castleton Tower) and Big Bend Butte
3. Iconic Desert Towers and Epic Views
Moab is home to some of the most famous desert towers in the world. There’s nothing quite like standing on top of a slender rock formation with panoramic views of the desert stretching in every direction.
Must-Climb Towers:
• Castleton Tower: A rite of passage for any serious climber
• Ancient Art: A climb that will make your Instagram feed legendary
• Looking Glass Rock: For friends, families and solo travelers seeking an introductory desert summit and best rappel EVER!
4. Year-Round Climbing Opportunities
While summers can be hot, Moab’s climate allows for climbing nearly year-round with some strategic planning.
• Spring & Fall: Ideal temperatures and optimal conditions
• Summer: Early morning or evening climbs, plus shaded routes
• Winter: South-facing walls stay warm in the sun. We do close for the winter months but climbing can be had depending on your comfort level
Eric Odenthal on an early ascent of a 5.11 at Wallstreet
5. The Thriving Climbing Community
Moab’s climbing scene is vibrant and welcoming. You’ll often find climbers exchanging beta at local coffee shops or sharing stories around campfires. Whether you’re solo or with a group, it’s easy to connect with like-minded adventurers.
Local Tip: Visit gear shops like Gearheads, Pagan Mountaineering or Gear Trader to meet other climbers and get the latest route recommendations and update gear.
6. Adventure Beyond Climbing
Moab offers more than just world class rock climbing. When you’re ready for a rest day, consider exploring:
• Hiking in Arches or Canyonlands National Park
• Mountain biking on the world-famous Slickrock, Bar M or Klonzo areas
• Cooling off with a swim at Ken’s Lake or Mill Creek
High lining with Faith Dickey as the photo shows below. This was my first space walk.
Eric Odenthal on the Skywalk near Canyonlands.
7. Why Choose a Local Guide?
As a local guide with Windgate Adventures in Moab, you are supporting the heart and sole of our small town by helping us share the dedication to our passions. For myself this will be coming up on 38 years of climbing. I know the best routes for you, I have done quite a bit of the development and know all of the safety considerations to make your climb unforgettable. Whether you’re new to climbing or aiming for a bucket-list ascent, I tailor every experience to your goals.
Eric discussing gear placement and movement on Ancient Art Tower
Start Your Moab Climbing Adventure
Moab isn’t just a place to climb—it’s a place to connect with nature, challenge yourself, and create lifelong memories. If you’re ready to experience the best climbing Moab has to offer, let Windgate Adventures guide you, your family, or your group in 2025.
Ready to climb? Book a guided climb with Windgate Adventures today and discover why Moab is one of the world’s premier climbing destinations.